The Problem
Sanding furniture for refinishing fails in both directions. Stopping too coarse leaves scratches the finish telegraphs; sanding too fine before painting leaves a surface too slick for good adhesion. And if a piece looks worse the more you sand it — blotchy, with a thin layer flaking through — you're probably cutting through veneer, not solid wood, and more sanding makes it worse.
The Technique
Work to numbers, not feel:
- Check what you're sanding first. If the surface starts looking worse as you sand — a thin face layer wearing through — it's veneer. Stop and reassess; veneer tolerates only light sanding.
- Sand to around 150 grit if you're painting. Paint needs a little tooth to grip; smoother costs adhesion without improving the result.
- Sand to 180–200 grit for staining (and about the same for paint-washing). Stain shows scratches more than paint does, so it earns the finer stop.
- Match the sander to the surface: an orbital sander for flat tops and sides, a detail sander with flexible pads for curves, profiles, and tight spots.
- Don't skip the finish sanding: a light pass with 320 grit after primer, and 400 grit between paint coats. Those two passes are the difference between a beginner result and a professional-feeling finish.
Safety note: Wear a dust mask or respirator when sanding old furniture — finishes on older pieces can contain lead or other nasties, and fine sanding dust hangs in the air long after you stop.