The Problem
Stair math is where deck stairs go wrong. The total drop has to divide into equal rises, the run has to match the treads you're actually installing, and a guess that's off by half an inch per step compounds into stairs that feel wrong and may not pass inspection.
The Technique
- Measure the total rise: level out from the top of the deck framing to the point where the stairs will land, and measure down. In the source video that's 38-1/2 inches.
- Divide by a trial number of rises: 38-1/2 divided by 5 comes to about 7-3/4 inches per step. If the result comes out steeper than you want, add a rise and divide again; shallower, take one away.
- Let the tread material set the run. Two 5-1/2 inch deck boards make an 11-inch tread; with a 1-inch nosing overhang on each step, that leaves a 10-inch run. No ripping boards, and the treads come out of stock material.
- Lay out the first step on 2x12 stringer stock — 2x12 leaves enough meat behind the notches for a deck stringer — measuring 7-3/4 inches up from a corner and 10 inches along for the run, and carry that rise-and-run pair down the board for each step.
Pro tip: Deriving the run from the tread boards, instead of picking a number and cutting boards to suit, is the move worth stealing — the treads land full-width with a clean overhang and zero rip cuts.
Safety note: Stairs are one of the code-heavy parts of a deck: most codes cap unit rise around 7-3/4 inches, limit rise variation between steps to 3/8 inch, and have handrail requirements. Check your local code before cutting stringers.
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