Miter Test Blocks
Measuring between mitered long points with a pair of known-length test blocks — a clean tape pull plus constants instead of knife-edge reads.
Drop the miter saw's blade into the slot with the saw off, slide the workpiece up until it just kisses the blade, hold it there, then raise the head and make the cut. It takes off a few thousandths instead of the sixteenth you'd get by moving the piece and guessing.
miter is a hair too long, sneak up on a cut, crown molding won't close, shave a thin sliver off a cut, cut a 32nd off a board
The last cut on a piece of trim is almost never a measured one. The crown is in place against the cabinet, the miter is a whisker open, and what you need off the end is a few thousandths — less than the width of the kerf.
When you slide the board over by eye and make a fresh cut, you take off about a sixteenth — that's the smallest bite anyone can aim for freehand, and it's roughly the width of the kerf itself. The piece that was a hair long is now a hair short, which is worse.
Register the workpiece against the stopped blade first, so the cut removes only what's proud of it.
Because the end was already sitting against the blade's plate, the only material in front of the teeth is the tiny amount the tooth set projects past it. You get a shaving instead of a cut.
Do it again and you get another one. That's what makes it useful on a miter you are closing by feel — you can creep up on the fit in passes rather than trying to nail it in a single measured cut.
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