The Problem
Trimming a window has two failure points: jamb extensions installed piece by piece that end up out of plane with each other, and casing run before the jamb is actually square — after which every miter is a negotiation. The fix is sequencing: build, then set, then case.
The Technique
Build the jamb as one box:
- Measure the window's width, height, and jamb depth — the distance from window frame to wall face. Cut the jamb boards to length and rip them to the measured depth (7⅛" in this house).
- Glue and nail the four jamb boards together into a complete box on the bench.
- Mark each corner a set distance in — a quarter inch — as the registration marks for where the casing will sit later.
Set the box:
- Place the box in the opening and shim the two bottom corners first, keeping the margin to the window frame even on both sides.
- Nail off the shimmed corners with a 15-gauge trim gun, then shim the middle of each run, checking with a level so nothing bows.
- Do the top corners, then shim and nail everything else off. Trim the shims flush with an oscillating multi-tool.
Case it:
- Cut the casing to length with 45° miters. Install the bottom piece first — brads on the inside edge into the jamb, 16-gauge nails on the outside into framing.
- Glue the miter faces, install the two side pieces, and finish with the header.
Pro tip: Corners-first shimming is the load-bearing habit here — the corners define the plane, and the middle shims only stop bowing. Shim the middle first and you can chase a twisted box around the opening all afternoon.