The Problem
The speed square rides in every pouch for 90s and 45s, and for most
owners that's where it ends — while the same triangle replaces a
protractor, a rip gauge, a center finder, and a rafter square.
The Techniques
- Mark a 90 off the fence — the everyday cut line.
- Mark a 45 off the hypotenuse.
- Mark any angle: hold the pivot corner on your line and swing the
square until the degree scale reads the angle you want.
- Step off consecutive layout lines by walking the square down the
board.
- Draw a line parallel to the edge: set a pencil in the scribe notch
at your width and slide the square's fence along the board — a rip
line the length of the stock.
- Find center: lay the square's rule across the board at an angle so
an even number spans edge to edge, and mark half of it — on a 2x6,
angle to 6 and mark at 3; on a 2x4, angle to 4 and mark at 2. No
dividing 5-1/2 in your head.
- Square a line off any existing line, not just off an edge — the
fence registers on your mark.
- Guide the saw: hold the square as a fence for the circular saw
shoe on crosscuts.
- Repeat a rafter pitch with stair gauges: clamp the little gauges
to the square at the pitch (the demo sets a common 4), and the square
registers the same plumb cut on every rafter without re-measuring.
- Then use it as the cutting fence for that rafter cut, same as any
crosscut.
Pro tip: The stair gauges are the
sleeper accessory — a few dollars of knurled clamps that turn the square
into a fixed template for any repeated angle, which is most of what a
framing square's rafter tables get used for on a small roof.