The Problem
A split-jamb door's casing is already attached to both jamb halves, which
is its selling point — no separate trim day — but it means every plumb and
reveal decision happens while you're holding an assembled unit that, in
the creator's words, keeps trying to walk out of the opening.
The Technique
- Pull the shipping staples and separate the two jamb halves.
- Remove the plastic latch keeper from the strike area before the door
goes all the way in, so the door can actually open once it's set.
- Set the hinge-side half in the opening. Hold it there with a door jack
under the unit if you have one — shims under the door work too.
- Shim above the head jamb on both sides. That top shimming leaves a
little play to correct either side if it proves out of plumb.
- Stand a laser level at the top of the door and check the hinge jamb
plumb top to bottom.
- Shim behind each hinge. At one hinge, swap a short factory screw for a
longer screw of matching head — driving it pulls the jamb toward the
framing, and you shim to that pulled-plumb position and snug it a hair
more.
- Move to the other side of the wall and slide the second jamb half into
the first. Set the laser as a reveal reference, hold the casing flush
to it, and nail through into the jack studs — that keeps the reveal
consistent the full height.
- Shim the latch side in three places, then nail off the casing all the
way around on both sides.
Pro tip: The long-screw-through-a-
hinge move is the adjustment mechanism of the whole install: it converts
the hinge from a thing you shim around into a thing that actively pulls
the jamb where you want it. One screw per door is usually enough, and it
also carries the door's weight into the framing instead of the jamb.