Straighten a Screen Frame
Taking a bent window-screen frame apart at the spline and corners, bending the rail true, and reassembling — saving the screen instead of replacing it.
Technique: Putty Knife Angle for Glazing
Bedding new putty into a wooden sash is easy. Striking it into a clean, even bevel is where a first attempt goes wrong: the putty tears rather than cuts, the surplus that should peel off in front of the knife instead smears back across the face you just formed, and you end up going over the same 300mm of rebate four times, each pass a little worse than the last. It reads as a putty problem — too soft, too cold, wrong material — and it usually isn't.
The variable is the angle the knife blade makes with the glass, and it is doing two separate jobs at once.
It sets the bevel. The knife face is the mould. Held closer to upright, the blade strikes a steeper bevel that sits tight against the glazing bar; laid over flatter, it produces a shallower, wider bevel that runs further out onto the glass. Both are legitimate finishes — the profile you want should match the other windows on the building — but you pick it with the knife angle, and once the putty is struck you cannot adjust it without starting that run again.
It decides where the excess goes. Ahead of the blade there is always surplus putty. At a steeper angle the blade shears it off and it rolls up in front of the knife as a continuous ribbon you can lift away in one piece. Laid flatter, the blade stops cutting and starts dragging, and the surplus goes sideways and back over the bevel instead of forward off it. That is the smearing, and it's why the fix is the knife rather than the putty.
The practical method is to run a short test length on one side of the sash, look at the bevel from the inside as well as the outside, and adjust the angle before committing to the rest of the window. Linseed oil putty gives you that — it stays workable long enough to strike a section twice.
Watching the comparison is worth more than reading it. The video runs several angles back to back on the same sash, so you can see both the bevel each one produces and what the surplus does in front of the blade.
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