The Problem
The short wall beside a shower does three jobs at once — carries tile,
closes the toilet alcove, and anchors the glass door — and each job has a
requirement: code clearance off the toilet, a dead-plumb line to the
structure above, and solid wood exactly where the door hardware lands.
Frame it as an afterthought and the glass installer finds drywall where
screws need to be.
The Technique
- Locate the wall. Measure off the shower base — this one sits 3-1/2"
out, a stud-width wall. Check the toilet side: 15" minimum from the
toilet centerline to the wall is the floor, 18" each side is the gold
standard.
- Project the line up with a laser and mark where it crosses the
trusses — that's where the wall ties into structure. Snap your plate
lines on the floor.
- Build the frame: bottom plate, two top plates, studs on layout.
Where a stud lands on concrete, fasten the bottom of the wall with a
concrete anchor.
- Add the glass-door channels. Build a vertical channel of blocking
where the door mounts, and a second one on the side panel's line,
running a couple of inches past the shower pan's footprint. The
overrun means the drywallers can finish clean and the door hardware
still finds framing.
- Make it rigid. Tie the wall into a joist or truss with a long
structural screw — the creator runs a 5" ledger screw, leaving about a
half-inch gap at the base of the connection point — so the wall can't
rock when the door swings on it. The more of the framing member the
screw catches, the better.
Pro tip: The channels are cheap
insurance either way: even if the door design changes, over-blocked
framing costs a few offcuts, while under-blocked framing costs opening a
tiled wall.