The Problem
An exterior wall is a dozen decisions made in the right order — plate
lengths, stud length, layout, crown direction, squaring, bracing — and a
mistake in an early one (layout pulled from the wrong side, plates flipped
end-for-end) is invisible until the sheathing or the second floor won't
land right.
The Technique
- Cut the plates. One bottom plate and two top plates, cut to the
full exterior length of the wall. Lay the bottom and first top plate
out around the house so every wall is staged before assembly starts.
- Pull layout — always from the outside of the house. Mark the first
stud at 1-1/2", then mark at every red 16-inch highlight on the tape,
3/4" each side of it — a stud-width box centered on the 16-inch grid.
- Cut studs to total wall height minus 3-3/8" (the three plates'
combined thickness). Lumber yards sell pre-cuts: 92-5/8" studs for an
8-foot ceiling, 104-5/8" for a 9-foot.
- Separate the plates without turning them — flip or spin one and the
layout marks no longer face each other.
- Crown the studs. Sight down each stud's narrow edge for the slight
bow, mark the crown direction, and build with every crown facing the
same way.
- Nail through the plates into each stud end — three nails per end in
a 2x6 wall, at least two in a 2x4 wall.
- Break plates over a stud. Anywhere a plate run needs more than one
board, the joint lands directly on top of a stud.
- Square by the diagonals — measure corner to corner both ways and
rack until the numbers match — then lock it flat: either nail on
diagonal bracing across the studs, or install the sheathing now,
running it down past the bottom plate to the bottom of the mud sill.
- Build the corners. Where two walls meet, add the L-shaped corner
assembly: it gives the neighboring wall something to tie into and
leaves the corner cavity open for insulation from inside.
- Stand it up. Working alone, toenail the bottom plate to the
subfloor first (or strap it) so the wall can't skate off the deck as
it rises. Plumb it, then nail the bottom plate off with two nails at
each stud location.
Pro tip: Sheathing hung before the
stand-up does double duty — it's the permanent racking brace, and running
it low to lap the mud sill ties wall to floor platform in one panel. The
cost is weight: a sheathed wall wants more hands or wall jacks (see
raising a framed wall alone).