Hand-Cut Hinge Mortise
Knife lines, relief nicks, and a protected border that keep the chisel honest while cutting a hinge gain without a router.
Technique: Foil-Tape Strike Transfer
A deadbolt strike has very little margin. The mortise has to land where the bolt actually throws, and on a door that's already hung, the bolt's position is the product of the lock's height, how the door sits in the opening, and how square the jamb is. Transferring that position by measuring means measuring from the door, walking the number to the jamb, and hoping the door closes where you think it does.
When the mortise lands a couple of millimetres out, the bolt drags on the edge of the plate or won't throw its full length, so the lock no longer engages the depth it's rated for. When it lands further out, the mortise is simply in the wrong place in a finished jamb, and the fix is a filled and re-cut jamb rather than an adjustment.
Let the bolt mark its own position.
The print records where the bolt lands with the door on its current hinges, at its current sag, against the jamb as built — so it already contains every error a measurement would have to account for separately.
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