Sharpen Hedge Trimmer Blades
Restoring the bevel on hedge trimmer teeth with a fine ceramic grinding disc, following the factory angle rather than recutting it.
Ten strokes a side at about 20 degrees, moving from your body rather than your arms so the angle can't drift — and running corner to tip across the whole stone, because sharpening in one spot wears a hollow into it.
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Freehand sharpening goes wrong in two ways, and the second one is permanent. The obvious failure is an inconsistent angle — roll your wrist through the stroke and you round the edge over instead of grinding a bevel. The one nobody warns you about is what you're doing to the stone: work the blade back and forth over the same few inches and you wear a hollow into the middle of it. A dished stone can't produce a straight edge afterwards, no matter how good your technique gets.
Set up first. Use a stone at least as long as the blade you're sharpening. Decide whether it's an oil stone or a water stone — mineral oil or water, not both — and soak or wet it accordingly. Put it on something non-slip with more water or oil within reach, because it has to stay wet throughout.
Then finish on the steel — after sharpening, not instead of it. Same 20 degrees, ten strokes a side. A honing steel realigns an edge that's rolled over; it doesn't remove metal, so it maintains between sharpenings rather than replacing them.
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