Utility Knife Notch Tricks
The string-cutting notch and the tape-hook rip gauge built into folding work knives.
The end cap of a snap-off knife has a slot cut into it for breaking the blade back to a fresh edge. It holds the segment while it snaps, so nothing flies and your fingers are never near the break.
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A snap-off blade is designed to be broken back to a fresh edge once the tip goes dull. Most people do it with pliers — grip the dull segment, lever it against the edge of something, and turn away. The blade is glass-hard and under tension, so it lets go all at once, and the piece that breaks off is a loose shard with two sharp edges and nothing holding it. It goes wherever the snap sends it, which is often across the room and occasionally into a finger.
The knife already has a blade snapper in it.
Your fingers are never near the break, and the cap contains the piece instead of launching it.
Neither of these is on the box either.
A combination square has a scribe in it. What looks like a second adjustment knob on the end of the head usually pulls out to reveal a hardened point. Set the square as normal — loosen the nut, slide the head to your depth, tighten — then mark with the scribe instead of hunting for a pencil. It scratches rather than draws, which is more precise and survives handling, so think before you use it on a finished face.
Any magnet turns a driver magnetic. Most screwdrivers, hex keys and ratcheting drivers aren't magnetised, so the screw drops off the tip every time you line one up. Stick a spare magnet anywhere on the shank and the steel carries enough field to hold the fastener. It works on a plain screwdriver, an Allen key or a ratcheting driver, and it pulls off again when you want the tool non-magnetic. The same trick works on a nut driver or a socket you're tired of dropping fasteners out of.
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