Roll a Ceiling
Building a buffer zone away from the edges so a loaded roller never leaves a fat ridge against the cornice.
A loaded roller carries too much paint to start at an edge. Dump it in the middle of the section with firm pressure, spread it out to the edges with a lighter roller, then finish with near-empty passes at almost no pressure.
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The natural instinct with a freshly loaded roller is to start at the edge of the section and work across. That's backwards. A full roller carries a heavy outer layer of paint that has to go somewhere, and if it goes down against a ceiling line or skirting, you get a fat edge exactly where you least want one — plus a heavy, textured stripe where the paint sat thickest.
Think of every section as three passes with the same roller at three different loads.
Pass one — dump the paint. Place the loaded roller about three-quarters of the way up the wall, next to your cut-in, and push firmly. That first press releases the outer layer of paint onto the wall. Roll down in a straight line, leaning slightly, increasing pressure as you go, and stop short of the bottom cut-in. Roll back up, still firm, and now the roller is light enough to safely meet the cut-in near the ceiling — though still not right against it. Roll down once more, stopping clear of the skirting.
Pass two — color it in. The roller is nearly empty and there's a load of thick paint sitting on the wall. Roll back up with less pressure, picking that paint up and carrying it into the bare areas. A small wiggle at the top helps you reach the cut-in cleanly. Work across the section, covering everything, and roll as close to the wall edges as you can control.
Pass three — lay it off. With the roller empty and the lightest pressure you can manage, roll top to bottom in single continuous movements, slowing near the ceiling and skirting. Work across the section the same way. This evens the film and pulls out the heavy marks the first pass left.
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