Multimeter Resistance Testing
Using a multimeter's ohms setting to catch component failures a continuity test misses.
Most 'dead' appliances have one failed component, and if it's soldered in, three things stand between you and the repair: a temperature-controlled iron, electronics solder (not plumbing solder), and flux to make the joint flow.
fix a broken appliance, learn to solder, soldering supplies for home repairs
When an appliance dies, the advice is to replace it — not because it can't be repaired, but because one soldered-in component stands between most people and the fix. Diagnosis finds the failed part (a multimeter job — see the resistance-testing tip from this creator's earlier series); getting the old part out and the new one in is soldering, and the entry bar is lower than it looks.
This distills the creator's three-part starter series (parts 2 and 3 are linked below the first video):
A handheld tool with a heated tip that melts solder. Skip butane irons for electronics — their temperature control is poor and they'll cook components. A temperature-controlled electric iron gives consistent, precise heat, and this is not the tool to buy at rock-bottom price; the cheapest ones fail unsafely.
A low-melting-point metal alloy, usually a thin wire on a reel: heat it, it wets and flows around the wires or terminals, and on cooling it forms both the electrical connection and a mechanical joint. Two rules:
Metal exposed to air grows an oxide layer, and molten solder won't stick to oxide. Flux — rosin-based, from tree resin, with modern activators — cleans that layer off as the solder melts, letting the joint flow and bond. Most electronics solder is flux-cored already; on older appliances with oxidized terminals, add a small dab of separate flux to the joint, heat, and feed the solder in — the difference in flow is immediate.
Electrical, plumbing, and structural work may be regulated where you live — check local code before you start, and note that a permit may be required. More in our disclaimer.
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